I've transferred and updated this walkthrough from my blog on foodfriend.org. A keggle is a great investment if you're starting to get serious about homebrewing. Stainless steel is a versatile and durable metal, and there are many abandoned kegs that need good homes. The following walkthrough will take you from old keg to new keggle in 8 easy steps. I'm trying to make this as simple as possible!


1. Acquiring the Keg

Before I begin this walkthrough, I should warn everyone that just because you've paid a deposit on a keg does not mean you own it. Kegs are the property of the brewery, and cost $140-$180 new. Most keg deposits are $15-$20, so kegs that aren't returned to the brewery end up costing them money. Breweries call this loss "keg float". If you can, do the right thing and return the keg. But if you can't return the keg for a deposit, then by all means break out the plasma torch.

There are several ways of acquiring kegs. You could buy a new shiny keg from Sabco, but this can be pricey. If you call around to local metal scrapyards, you may be able to find a keg from one of them, although many states have started to outlaw scrapyards from buying old kegs. The best way to find kegs is through word of mouth. Let your friends know that you're looking for kegs, you may be surprised how quickly you find one.

2. De-pressurizing the Keg

Kegs are pressurized in order to push beer out of the tap. Your keg most likely still has beer and pressure in it, and both of these will need to be removed.

The easiest way is to get a flathead screwdriver and depress the ball in the center of the tap. If you do this with the keg upright, it will create a fun (and messy) beer fountain. With the keg on its side you can relieve the pressure without making a big mess.


3. Removing the adhesive

I like to remove the adhesive from old labels before I begin cutting, simply because I hate sticky adhesive and like to have a clean keg. I find that WD40 and a paint scraper do a good job removing the adhesive. Depending on how much is on the keg, this can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour. Leaving the WD40 on overnight will ensure that the oil does a good job breaking down the adhesive. You could postpone this step until later, but make sure you remove the adhesive before using the keggle for the first time.

4. Cutting the top

Before you break out your cutting tools, draw a good line to follow while you're cutting. Take a string and tie it to the center post, and tie the other end to a permanent marker. Slowly trace the outline of the hole, which ideally will be around 13.5 to 14 inches in diameter. If you mess up your line, take some rubbing alcohol and erase it.

PROTECT YOUR EYES, EARS, FACE, HANDS, AND LUNGS WHILE CUTTING STEEL!

The three most common ways to remove the lid are a Dremel (or similar rotary tool), an angle grinder, or a plasma cutter. A dremel is the most time consuming, but since many people already have a dremel, this may be the most feasible for your situation. An angle grinder is basically a large dremel, which means that while it's faster at making the cut, it's also louder and harder to control. A plasma torch is the fastest solution, but also the least likely to be found in the average household.

For my first conversion, I used a dremel. While the cut took over an hour, it was a very nice, round cut with no jagged edges or spikiness. I have since used a plasma torch, with equally good results.

After you've made the cut, file the edge with a steel file to remove any sharp or jagged edges. Test the edge with your fingers to make sure you've done a good job.


5. Drilling the drain hole

If you bought the weldless fitting, your hole will need to be 7/8" in diameter. Your two options are to get a "bi-metal 7/8" hole saw drill bit attachment" or a "multi-stage titanium drill bit". I have used both and prefer the multi-stage bit. Either way, you want to place the center of the hole two inches above the beginning of the bottom of the third section. Place the hole between two of the vent holes in the bottom, this way any rising heat from the flame will be diverted away from your fitting. When drilling the hole, use high pressure and low RPMs. Your drill and drill bit will get very hot, keep the keg oiled and give the drill a break every 20-30 seconds. Be patient, cutting this hole may take a few minutes depending on your drill.


6. Installing the fittings

Install the fittings based on the instructions provided. Do not overtighten the weldless fittings or you can harm the rubber gaskets.


7. Trial Run

Make sure you test the drain fittings with water before any actual brewing. Also make sure to thoroughly rinse the inside to remove any metal dust from the cutting. Leave the water in the keg for 15 minutes with the drain closed to see if any water leaks. Tighten it a bit more if needed.


8. Sanding for a shiny finish

There's something to be said about taking an old keg covered in dings, scuffs, and adhesive and turning it into a shiny vessel capable of producing some of the best beer in the world. While a shiny keg will not make your beer taste any better, it adds a nice touch.